And then we came to the end.... of part one!

The first half of our trip came to a conclusion, fittingly, in Copenhagen, tied with Amsterdam where we started, as the bike capital of Europe, if not the world. The journey that led us there along the Berlin - Copenhagen Radweg 

seemed much faster than the rest of the trip, with every rotation of the wheels bringing us a step closer to home (sorry about the mixed transportation metaphor). The kids seldom complained, partly because they were excited to see friends and family, partly because by now they were used to the cycling and barely even felt the kilometres whizzing by.

We left Berlin along the Mauerweg, and stopped for lunch and a swim at a former West German holiday enclave, outside the borders of West Berlin but still permitted as a vacation haven for West Germans who had to go through complex permitting and border controls to enjoy a week-end away on the lake. Although the route was quite good (often along the peaceful Havel River),

we had to take a detour off the path to get to our campsite. We had the option of a long circuitous route, but we came to a road closed due to construction that would shorten the detour significantly, so after a conversation with the hard hat wearing crew they granted us access to our own private highway,

before cutting through a sandy forest track to finally reach our destination.

Going onwards the next day we travelled through fields of wildflowers

and on wooden boardwalks,

and continued to be grateful for the preferential treatment afforded cyclists in Germany - besides segregated paths everywhere there were roads similar to those in Holland which explicitly belonged to cyclists, though cars were allowed if they behaved themselves.

We slowed to a snail's pace to avoid hitting the tiny toads that popped out everywhere, making the route an obstacle course (more hazardous for the toads than us).

Though we didn't see many cyclists on the road, we met up with other families at the campsites. One evening we looked around for Tom who had disappeared from the playground, finding him at sitting on a picnic blanket outside of the tent of his newly adopted lego-owning family. 

Jacob and Kyra meanwhile played chess while spectators shouted suggestions for their next moves.

Continuing north we passed by towering pines

and castles, 

stayed in the towns Krakow and Schwann

and took swim breaks whenever we could.

The ubiquitous plums 

and blackberries continued to tempt us.

We cycled towards the sea with a Dutch family we met en route,

but while they headed to the ferry to Denmark, we decided to take a detour to the coastal town of Graal-Muritz. It was our least favourite campsite because of the unbelievably vicious mosquitoes - being from Canada with experience canoeing in Algonquin Park you'd think we would have experienced worse than anything Europe could throw at us, but these mosquitoes could have held their own against any of ours back home. We got more bites in one night than we had on the entire rest of our trip combined. We still managed to have fun swimming in the sea 

and dancing at a sunset beach party.

The ferry to Denmark the next morning transported us to another world. Rostock, Germany is a huge port packed with activity, and it felt amazing to be accorded equal status to the vans trucks and buses, cycling on dedicated lanes up to

and inside the ferry.

In contrast, Gedser, the town where we disembarked in Denmark, is a small and quiet, with Danish flags flying everywhere.

Leaving the bustling port in Rostock at the other side, we got off the ferry and were greeted by a lovely park with picnic tables and a chess board for the kids. We exulted that we were in biking mecca as we cycled amazing paths and quiet roads, 

and marvelled at how different everything felt from the rest of our trip - the houses seemed like masterpieces of modern architecture, the sea glittered in the sun, 

the windmills were cuter, even the hay bales were square instead of round.

Our campsite that night topped off the feeling we were in cycling heaven. It was right on the coast with few people around, so we could go for an early morning skinny dip in the ocean to wake up, 

but it was also equipped with a kitchen, playground, trampoline and soccer pitch.

Our amazing intial experience, as well as our preconceived notions about cycling in Denmark, led to a bit of disappointment when the cycling infrastructure the next day failed to be as comprehensive as we expected. It started out well on quiet scenic roads with a short ferry ride,

but when we reached the causeway to Mons Island we were forced to merge with high speed traffic on a narrow bridge along a laughably small shoulder.

Despite being part of the official cycling route, that stretch was probably the least safe road we had been on of the entire trip - it was so surprising to us that the Czech Republic at times had better infrastructure for cyclists than fabled Denmark.

Fortunately the path soon veered off onto quiet roads lined with pretty cottages and farmhouses a few km later. 

At any rate, the scenery of blazing fields of wheat 

and azure sea

more than made up for those few gaps in the cycling infrastructure, as did the delicious chocolate cake and homemade ice cream we ate while listening to Ella Fitzgerald crooning on vinyl at a beautifully laid out cafe catering to cyclists passing by.

Even more impressive were the chalk cliffs along the coast. First we came to Mons Klimt, where visitors came from around the world to see their towering white splendour.

We stayed for two nights at the campground (boasting tennis courts, a pool and a trampoline as well as a full kitchen) from where we could walk through the forest and down a lengthy staircase 

to hike over dunes 

and along the beach strewn with fossils from the Cretaceous period.

Back on the road we cycled by patches of wild rhubarb

and all manner of garage sales - from tiny tables along the road 

to full on flea markets in parking lots and fields, it seems the Danes love a good bargain (unsurprisingly since everything is so expensive!). Danish kids had all gone back to school in mid-August but summer persisted, so our truant children could continue to enjoy the sun and sea at sandy beaches.

The camping thus far had been great, but late one day we arrived at a campsite where the owner came out and sternly castigated us for leaning our bikes on the picnic tables out front only grudgingly saying he had room. We were really put off by his attitude so said we would find somewhere else to camp and set off again. Of course after our righteously indignant departure we checked the map and saw there wasn't another established campsite for another 30 km. Not wanting to do the ride of shame back to the grumpy campground owner's place we tried to decide what else to do. I remembered having seen a tent symbol next to the route at a site just 10 km away, though when Paul checked it on his phone it showed only a nature centre, with no camping available. We stopped to consider our options at the lighthouse at Stevens Klimt, where the kids could look out over the water through the free telescopes.

We decided to go and camp behind a bush at the centre if necessary, but when we arrived we discovered it was one of Denmark's "wild" campsites - free spots in nature reserves that are maintained, with water and toilets. Other campers were already there in one of the shelters, sitting around the fire pit and we chatted with them, marvelling at how beautiful this free site was.

We set up in a sheltered corner

and ate dinner under the moon.

We put our bikes and paniers under the observation tower, 

so they were protected from the massive rainstorm that happened that night. In the morning we climbed up for a last look over the cliffs

and then rode off in the pouring rain to Copenhagen.

Despite the grey weather we were all so excited to be completing this massive U shaped journey we'd done through Europe. We had a celebratory picnic (nutella and bread as usual) when we arrived on the outskirts of Copenhagen.

Compact urban planning meant that the built environment largely ended a mere 10 km from the city centre, so we were able to stay for free at another wild campsite in a nature reserve with horses 

and huge patches of wild blackberries,

with only the frequently passing airplanes to remind us that we were camped on the edge of a metropolis.

Our contact with the famed Copenhagen architecture began with a ride by 8 House, an award-winning mixed use development in the shape of a figure 8. Retail, office and housing spaces in the development are all connected by a cycle and walking promenade on the tenth floor, the rooftop is entirely covered in garden, and the back of the building opens out onto the water.

From the campsite we cycled along the waterfront

and over the harbour along the elevated Bicycle Snake bridge 

into the heart of Copenhagen. We stopped in the city only long enough to check in at the tourist office and have a snack from the bakery, then took off to do a small loop north of the city for a few days, deciding we would save our city exploration for the final three days before our flight.

Our explorations of Zeeland took us first to Hillerod, where we intended to stop for only one night, but thanks to the best campground of our entire trip we decided to stay for two. The hosts were so friendly, the kitchen was amazing, the obligatory trampoline was present along with a fussball table,

and it even had a quiet dining room for campers with candles and flowers.

We easily passed the extra day with a visit to Frederiksborg Castle, the immense royal residence built for King Christian IV, now a museum about the history of the Danish monarchy. 

We wandered through the Renaissance interior 

and the manicured grounds 

before heading back to relax at the campground - not as luxurious as the castle but to us it wasn't far behind!

Departing late from Hillerod due to a tremendous rainstorm that lasted two hours, we headed to Helsingor, home of Kronborg, the castle on which Hamlet's Elsinore castle was based (despite Shakespeare purportedly never having visited it). We walked around the perimeter of the castle 

but spent most of our time instead at the Danish Maritime Museum, another innovative architectural gem reached by walking down a long ramp,

and filled with light 

despite its below sea level location in the former ship repair yard - a prime imperative for its design was that it not block the view of Kronborg castle so the architects were forced to build down not up.

We finished off our tour of the region with a visit to the incredible Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, with a stunning indoor space showing off Giacometti sculptures,

a great exhibit on Africa and an extensive children's section where the kids happily made paintings and constructed sculptures.

It felt as if we were coming full circle, since like the Dutch Kroller Mueller museum we visited early in our trip, the Louisiana was light filled, built in a natural setting, and endowed with a terrific outdoor sculpture garden - there was even a Dubuffet sculpture 

similar to the giant mushroom the kids had walked on in Holland.

The cycling was great. To get out of Copenhagen we'd taken a 20 km superhighway built for cycle commuters, with bicycle pumps installed along the route in case of flat tires. More relaxed was the cycling on gravel through fields,

or on paths lined with lavender,

finishing by riding along the sea back to Copenhagen. 

We went through a small rainburst and were rewarded with a beautifully intense rainbow and a faint sister arc alongside.

Our very last night as touring cyclists was at another free "wild" campsite in Niva. We went for an after dinner walk along the sea and reflected on our long journey as the moon reflected on the water. 

There were a few large school groups at the campsite, whose musician dads stayed up late singing and playing the guitar which soothed us to sleep, although the shrieks of the kids after their parents went to bed weren't as lyrical. There were also many large slugs like the ones we'd encountered (and inadvertently smushed) along much of our European route. Though not, um, conventionally beautiful they were still constant companions on the path so we have a soft spot for them.

After all that riding we stopped for good in Copenhagen. It is a modern city, though of course with its share of historic buildings

and churches.

Colourful multi-storey apartments face the canals large and small,

some feeling exactly like those of Amsterdam.

More vibrant hues decorate buildings through the commune Christiania - a free and autonomous society that arose somewhat organically in the 60's. It's an interesting social experiment that seems to be generally working for its residents, despite the pressures on the area due to its location on prime Copenhagen real estate.

Sculptures and graphic art decorated most of the main buildings, including an indoor and outdoor skateboard park 

and we came upon stalls openly selling hashish that made us improvise a little extra curricular anti drug education for the kids. After exploring a little Jacob was happy to leave because he said the smell was giving him a headache, and the area was less than glamorous, so I think it was a helpful lesson!

The weather had turned but we were determined to jump into the sea in the middle of the city at Islands Brygge. As we cycled up to the area of the harbour where a pool of sea water has been corralled into a lifeguard attended swimming area, the heavens opened and buckets of rain poured down. I was ready to give up on the idea of swimming but Jacob remained undeterred, so after the rain stopped we took off our rain jackets and put on our suits, and went for a dive in the very chilly waters, only discovering the jellyfish lurking in the corners after we got out.

The best was the plunge from the pirate ship into the water - a super high jump that the kids 

and Paul made look easy 

but when it was my turn I screamed all the way down.

We warmed up at a cool warehouse called Paper Island that sold a huge variety of street food to be eaten on long wooden tables. 

We stayed inside because of the rain but on a sunny day it would be lovely to eat on the harbour with a view of the Opera House next door.

As expected, cycling through the city was a joy, with great lanes whizzing us through neighbourhoods

and through the varied architectural landscape of the city, including the engineering marvel of the moveable circle bridge that had been dropped piece by piece into place in the harbour like a giant 3D puzzle.

The pace was fast and the other cyclists were serious about their commute, so we had to move quickly whenever we were on the main routes.

We loved our bikes and they performed well most of the time (with a few minor glitches - see next blog entry) but with exorbitant shipping costs we decided to leave two bikes sadly behind. Friendly Selena who saw our post online bought Jacob's bike for use while in Copenhagen as a student,

and the weehoo went to the only bike store in town who would take the tandem attachment. 

Though much loved by us it was way too unconventional for the Danes. We were sad to bid it adieu!

Most unexpected was how much we were welcomed and made to feel at home our last three nights. We had planned to camp and then stay in a hotel near the airport, expecting to be all on our own, but Leonardo and Isabella, good friends of Paul's sister Kate and her husband Wim, had offered to put us up for three nights, an offer we quickly accepted. They gave us a massive bedroom for us all, and we shared dinners, breakfast and chats in the kitchen together. 

The kids became fast friends and put all the mattresses in the living room one night for a giant sleepover party. 

Then on our final night we had dinner with my longtime friend Caron, who had planned a last minute trip to Copenhagen to see her sister Colleen and nieces that happily coincided with our time. Colleen hosted us for a delicious dinner 

(not sure why I gave the paper towels the greatest prominence in this picture) topped off with a chorus by the table as she and Caron presented me with delicious brownies topped with a candle in honour of my birthday.

With a breakfast all together back at our hosts' place in the morning, Isabella making sure we were equipped for lunch, and Leonardo helping us pack the remaining bikes into the taxi,

it felt like we were leaving family. Such an amazing way to end our journey, and one that encapsulated all the generosity and warmth we have received from people who were previously strangers but took us in and became friends. 

We'd gotten addicted to the homemade Danish pop tarts so that was our final treat from the airport bakery,

and we drank from glasses that seemed custom made for us.

As we waited at the airport it seemed hard to believe five and a half months had gone by.

We were excited to be coming home, but a little sorry to be ending such a momentous journey (at least Paul and I were!). Over the past 4000 km we had plenty of ups and downs, and we weren't always at our best (especially me), but spending that kind of time together was a tremendous gift, and we will draw on the strength we built up, both physical and mental, to carry us through the next and final months of our year long adventure.