Trains, Planes, and Bicycles: The river runs through it - paddling and cycling on the Vltava

The most vibrant European cities we have visited on this trip, including fairy tale Prague, have at least three common characteristics that make them eminently liveable. First, all have interconnected networks of cycle paths into, out of, and around the core. Prague has included bike lanes in the design of its newer bridges

and has come up with an innovative way of making busy roads safe for cyclists. Normally a parked car is a cyclist's greatest foe due to the threat from carelessly opened doors. Instead, Prague traffic planners have effectively removed the threat of dooring by providing greater visibility for both cyclists and drivers, and has made the parked cars actually serve to protect cyclists from busy traffic. A win-win situation - no more need to fight over whether to have parking or bike lanes!!

Secondly, the excellent public transit systems in these great cities enhance the efficiency and beauty of the urban areas they serve. Prague has an extensive network of trams, old and new,

and buses that we made great use of - giving the bikes a break for a couple of days since riding in the centre on cobblestone through crowds of people was difficult - but our favourite was the subway.

Each station that we saw was decorated in a common style

but with different metallic-tinged colours.

The escalators were sky high.

Paul and I both have a mild aversion to heights so held on tight and avoided looking down.

Finally, the cities on our route all make maximum use of their waterfronts. Unlike Toronto's condos and expressways which block public access to our own beautiful lake, European cities celebrate their rivers and fill the waterside space with parks, promenades and cafes. Prague was no exception, and after first enjoying the Vltava river (known as the Moldau in English) by cycling on its banks, we were able to tent alongside it. The campsite was next to a whitewater kayaking school that had partitioned part of the river into a series of rapids the kids watched with rapt interest. Despite the quietness of the site it was a short walk from a tram that took us into the centre for dinner at a great restaurant serving delicious Czech food.

Visitors and residents alike cruised the river on various pleasure craft, stopping at tiny stalls providing beer and coolers for thirsty boaters. As I mentioned in my last post, Marty, Sam and Ben met us in Prague, sharing an apartment with us for three nights to the great delight of the kids. One sunny afternoon the eight of us rented paddleboats and picnicked in them while sightseeing in the harbour. We indulged Tom and got a classic car for our expedition,

while Jacob joined Marty's crew in the standard model.

It was a gorgeous sunny afternoon and so lovely to wile away the hour on the water, while getting another perspective on Prague's beautiful buildings.

Prague fully lived up to its reputation as a breathtaking city, but crowded with tourists. Paul and I woke up early one morning to wander the streets before everyone else woke up,

and watched the shadows on the buildings melt away as the sun rose higher in the sky.

Though during the main part of the day the inner streets were crowded with people like us snapping photos,

it was easy to find some space outside of the central square. We marvelled at the towering white arches of St. Vitus cathedral,

wandered around the castles, up to the mini tour eiffel built for some reason on the top of Prague, and escaped the crowds by venturing to farmer's markets and parks.

Being with Marty, Ben and Sam was the biggest highlight of all.

Kyra loved carrying Sam through the city

and along the river,

while Tom found Sam was morphing from a cute little baby

to a companion in exploration

and a worthwhile adversary in soccer. Our final night the kids went on their own (escorted to and picked up by Marty and co) to the cinema around the corner to see Minions, which they talked about for days, while Paul and I went to the riverside for another outdoor film festival, this one showing the tense sci-fi flick Ex Machina as the full moon shone on a church on the hill and glinted off the black water. The Czech teenagers behind us gave us their blanket to sit on, asked us afterwards how we enjoyed the movie and apologized for the loud drunken commentary of the patrons next to us, saying "well we don't know them, but that's Prague!".

Leaving a great apartment and a wonderful city behind is always a little hard, but it was made much easier by the fact that Marty and family were joining us on for two days on their rental bikes.

In the morning we cycled off along the Vltava and north to Melnik, for what turned out to be the portaging section of our trip. To avoid a steep highway detour we chose to follow the unfinished path along the river, which became narrower and narrower until it was a mere dirt track through the bushes.

It ended at a railway bridge which we had to carry our bikes up to before crossing to the other side of the river, which we hoped would be smoother. Unfortunately while the track was wider it was also completely sandy, easy for the many dirt bikers who sped past us but very difficult with fully loaded bikes, especially the tandem. Paul, Tom and I walked most of that stretch of 2 km (sounds like not much but felt like a lot!) until we hit more solid ground. After that the path was dreamy - completely paved and solely for bikes.

We crossed the Vltava on tiny ferries

and passed by fields of hops soon to be made into Czech's famous brews.

We ended up in the town of Melnik, having pizza at the campground restaurant together before retiring to sleep in our tent (us) and barrel (Marty, Ben and Sam).